Q: I recently purchased an old Volvo wagon. It is more to do errands (more truck than car) and not my primary transportation.
About a week ago, the trunk/hatch stopped opening. The only way I can use the cargo area is to load everything in through the doors. The weird part about this car is, there is no exterior lock on the trunk and no interior release lever. The local Volvo dealership says the only way to open it is removal of the rear bumper and then the entire hatch to fix the lock.
Any cheaper suggestions other than cut a hole in the hatch with a reciprocating saw?
A: I have seen this before and, in some models near the license plate mounting, there is an indent where a lock cylinder would go.
Based on what I have read, you may be able to drill a hole and manipulate the lock with a piece of wire to get the hatch open. Once it is open then you can take off the interior panel and fix the actual problem. Even if you had to drill a 1-inch hole the access the mechanism, you can fill the hole with a rubber or plastic plug. You could also carefully pry the rear panel off, but there is likelihood of some damage to the rim panel. I would try any of these methods before I hacked into the hatch with a reciprocating saw.
Q: My 2018 Ford has only 19,000 miles on it. Very recently, its 2-year old battery went dead. AAA came and jump started the car. At the time the road service guy said the battery was dead and it was suggested I buy a new battery. At 2 years old, it seemed unreasonable that the battery was defective, and I said no thanks. Now the car has needed to be jumped two more times. Is it possible the battery has actually gone bad in this short of time?
A: The average life of a battery is about 5 years — that is an average. Some last 7 years and some — like your battery — only last 2 years.
If it were my car, I would fully charge the battery and then have a complete check of the charging system performed. It is possible that the battery was never completely recharged after the first jump start. If you, like many, haven't been driving often, the battery is never going to completely recharge.
You also may find out that your 2-year-old battery is just in need of replacement.
Q: I own a 2011 Lexus RX 350 with 237, 000 miles on it. The car runs great, but it is a magnet for collisions. Last year I was rear-ended to the tune of $3,400 in damages. A month ago, I hit a box that fell off a truck. The trucking company paid for the repairs and it looks great. I am wondering if I should trade it in or keep it.
A: Lexus makes a good vehicle but with 237,000 miles on it the value just isn't there.
If it were my car, I would just drive it knowing that at some point you will need to replace it as it wears out.
Q: We have a Ford Freestar minivan that runs well but has a problem. After driving out on the highway, a transmission warning light comes on. If I stop the car for a bit, and restart it, the light goes out and it drives okay. I can drive all day around town and the light doesn't come on. The previous owner said he recently had the transmission serviced. What is wrong?
A: That model had at least two problems. The first problem is the computer for the transmission would get wet and cause the warning light to come on. In this case, a liberal coating of silicone sealant fixes the problem.
The other issue is the torque converter is faulty. As you are driving, the torque converter slips causing the fluid to overheat and the light to come on. At city speeds, this is less likely to occur.
With the age of the vehicle, most shops will probably recommend a transmission replacement.
John Paul is the AAA Northeast Car Doctor. He has more than 40 years of experience in the automobile industry and is an ASE-Certified Master Technician. Write to John Paul, The Car Doctor, at 110 Royal Little Drive, Providence, RI 02904. Or email jpaul@aaanortheast.com and put "Car Doctor" in the subject field. Follow him on Twitter @johnfpaul or on Facebook.
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